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Dubrovnik and the Kotor bay: endless sun and gorgeous old towns

09/09/2018

We woke up super soon and drove to Dubrovnik and parked where Eric recommended us. The parking for 6 hours, from 7:30 to 13:30, was 60 kuna (8€). We got 200 kuna more (25€) from the bank, we spent part of it in the bus going to the city walls and we arrived to the old town before 8. We could wander around in almost empty streets before the crowds arrived, and even snuck in in some private toilets (without meaning it!). When it started to get fuller we got breakfast (eggs benedict, a sandwich, juices and coffees). We bought a couple radler to keep us cool and walked a bit more inside and outside the walls, enjoying the views and trying to recognize filming places of Game of Thrones. After another short supermarket stop, we walked back to our car to start the 1h drive to Montenegro! The road gifted us some gorgeous sights from Dubrovnik from the top, and we were lucky enough to find an empty border. 2 grumpy police officers later, we where in Montenegro! Just in case someone is wondering: if you don't have a green card for your car, you can buy one there. I don't know for how much since we had ours :)
We arrived in Herceg Novi and found a parking spot in a parking next to a fortress, Kanli Kula, that is usually zone 2, but -are we lucky!- it was free because it was sunday! We walked around the narrow streets of the old town, seeing churches and beautiful buildings in our way, and visited Fort Mare (2€ each). Hungry, went to a restaurant called Tri Lipe to have an amazing fish platter and 2 beers for 35€ including tips. Then we went to the closest beach and swam and chilled there. When we had enough sun, Alex returned to Tri Lipe to buy in the window outside a delicious burger "Ikea hotdog style", that is, put your own toppings, for 2.5€. Then we walked along the promenade and citadela and got a tourist package sim card, 200 Gb data for 2 weeks for 10€. Totally worth it with our little mobile hotspot, that allows us to make our own wifi for all our devices! After that, I needed to pee, but all the beaches (and its toilets) were already closed, so we went to a bar, Citadela, and got 3 beers for 6.20€. It was full of tipsy locals in a good mood, talking to us, singing and dancing with me every time I crossed them to use the (DIRTY) bathroom. Around 9 we went back to our car walking around, seeing the Clock tower, which we had previously missed, with a concert going on. In the car we watched a bit Broadchurch, but half an hour later it was clear we were not going to sleep there, since it was full of people coming and going, so we moved a bit further in a shady street.
Total: 103.7€
Parking: 8
Public transport: 5
Breakfast: 20
Supermarket: 9 + 4
Tickets: 4
Lunch: 35
Internet: 10
Burger: 2.5
Beers: 6.2

Dubrovnik's walls.
Herceg Novi, our first destination in Montenegro.
The lila hour's sky always gets me.

10/09/2018

We woke up and we really didn't want to have breakfast there, so first we refueled and then we drove a bit until finding a nice spot. Before Perast, next to a nice hotel, there were several parking spots with access to the water used mainly by fisherman. We parked, put out our chairs and table and had breakfast enjoying the view. Then we swam at the hotel beach and went to Perast. Parking was 2€ for the full day, although since we didn't go to Our Lady of the Rocks, we were done in 2 hours with the only beautiful romantic street it is. We got a burek and a cherry drink from a supermarket in the other side of Perast, and once we walked back we were pretty sweaty, so we decided to go have some lunch to make time for our check in (wooohooo, we were going to have finally a room -and a shower!). We searched for a well rated restaurant next to our place, and ended up in Dobrotsy Dvori. The waiter was the unfriendliest one I've met in a while, and the food was just ok, although maybe we were unlucky choosing food with montenegrish names: we were making fun of going to other countries to just order burger with fries, just to find out when we got our dishes, that Alex had indeed ordered a burger with fries. Mine was meat with peppers and onion. All together with a big water and a small (not earned) tip was 17€, which was just not worth it. After lunch, we took a while and a phone call to find our place for the night in Dobrota, Villa PM, since it was twice on google! Our simple room with A/C, kitchen, and a big (and a bit noisy) bed just next to the private beach was 28€ per night. It is the first place when the road along the beach to Kotor starts, which makes it a wonderful place for walking and biking, too! So after enjoying the beach for a while and getting a much needed shower, we walked aboyt 1 hour to Kotor. We went straight to the fortress, but the entrance was 8€, but just before summer it was 3 and we didn't want to support that and the sun was already low anyway so we roamed the old city. We had some beers, shots and ice cream and felt like inside The Witcher in the dark alleys. We even saw a giant frog! On our way back, we bought a (hard) burek in a supermarket (and more things) and ate at the beach. We arrived at our apartment at 10:10 and tried to watch some Netflix, but we were so tired that at 11 we were more than sleep!
Total spent: 146€
Refuel (full tank): 80€
Perast parking: 2€
Perast supermarket: 5€
Lunch: 17€
Apartment: 28€
Drinks: 7€
Ice cream: 2€
Kotor wupermarket: 5€

Boats of all sizes leave Perast to visit the Lady of the Rocks.
Kotor is full of lovely cats. Please consider renaming it to Cator.
Kotor in the night is magical.

11/09/2018

We woke up soon and went to the beach, where Alex swam and I chickened out since it was "cold" in the shade! We had some breakfast in the hotel terrace next to the water, showered, checked out and found a free parking spot next to Kotor old town. We got 2 ice creams and walked through the old city, which looked completely different in the day. I bought some earrings in the market and went outside the walls to Tanja family for lunch, but it was crowded and the meat was sold out. So instead we had some pasta and risotto in La catedral and at around 3 we started to climb the Ladder of Kotor. We arrived to the top about 2 hours later, and our way down we checked the ruins of Saint John and went insede the fortress through the free "back door". In the end, it took us less than 4 hours, with breaks to give water to a cat and multiple picture stops. The views were spectacular. We got drinks in a supermarket, and dinner got some take away in (this time yes) Tanja family. We got a sandwich and a burger and they were delicious, totally recommended! We then drove to fort Gorazda, and sadly sunset was already over but the colors of the sky on our way up were still magical, with the views over Kotor and Tivat. The esplanade just in front of the fort was full of partying locals, so we took a place a bit appart to enjoy our dinner and some beers before going to sleep.
Total spent: 46€
Ice cream: 2€
Earrings: 15€
Lunch: 17€
Supermarket drinks: 6€
Dinner: 6€

On top of the world. Well, the Ladder of Kotor, but felt almost the same.
Going down through the fortress.
View as we arrived to fort Gorazda.
Published: 28 September 2018, by susana

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Summer 2018 was great in Germany, so great we never wanted it to end. So when in September the cold days arrived, we drove all the way to Montenegro (and shortly visited Dranice and Dubrovnik) to spend two weeks driving around. We prepared our car well enough so it was our home most of the time for those two weeks.

Entry 2 out of the 8 from this trip

September 2018
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